Whitchurch Fencing Club

Armoury Basics

Inspection and initial test
So your epee is playing up, and not registering hits ?

First of all - take the weapon in your hand, and examine it. Does it feel loose, or rattle either in the tip or in the handle ? Are both grub screws present in the tip ?? This may well give you a clue as to where the problem lies.

The tip
We’ll deal with the tip in a moment, but for now just check that both grub screws are present. If there’s a missing grub screw, fit one (see section dealing with the tip), and re-test, just in case that was the problem.

Handle & guard
Next, check the connection to the in-guard socket. The blade wires should make a good connection with the two `nearer` individual sockets. Check that the bolts forming the socket are tight and that there are no missing nuts. An ordinary household screwdriver will be suitable for this.

In-guard socket
`Further` socket – this makes the “earth” connection to the coquille, and often has a longer bolt than the other two sockets
`Nearer` sockets – these make the connection to the tip to register hits.

The bolts should be tight in all cases.

Check the connections
A broken wire can be obscured by the insulation, so check this first. If one of the wires has snapped at the connection with the socket, a fresh connection will have to be made. There will probably be enough blade wire inside the coquille for this. Carefully remove about an inch (25mm) of the plastic sleeving, and then the same amount of cotton insulation. Twist the bare wire round the terminal, and carefully tighten. This should do it.

( Enamelled blade wires - in a few cases, especially with non-Leon Paul wire, you may encounter blade wires which are enamelled, and when connected, even though everything looks alright, the epee will not function.

This is very difficult to ascertain visually, and you may need help with this from an experienced armourer. The wire should be checked for continuity with an ohmmeter on the bare wire. Although enamel can be scraped off, it is probably safer to burn it off with a match or cigarette lighter. Wipe off any carbon residue once it has cooled. )

Whilst looking at the coquille, check that the `Further` socket is tight. This is the “earth” connection, and connects with the coquille casing, and ensures that coquille hits do not register.

Dismantling the handle. If this hasn’t cleared the fault, the next step is to dismantle the handle. For pistol grips you will need an Allen Key, or possibly a Hex Nut spanner in some cases. Remove the handle, and pommel if fitted, and then the pad, and the in-guard socket. Watch out for any washers which may fall out. Then inspect the wiring for any kinks, trapped wires, or previous repair work !

If there is any rust or verdigris on the base of the bracket of the in-guard socket, or the base of the coquille, this will have to be removed with a piece of sandpaper to ensure there is a good “earth” connection.

Broken or damaged blade wire(s) - if it turns out that one of the blade wires has broken, it is probably best to seek advice from an experienced armourer at this stage.

Removing the coquille - it is unlikely that you will need to remove the coquille. But if it is removed, this should be done very carefully. Where the blade wire(s) enter the handle area is one of the most vulnerable spots, as the wires are fragile if repeatedly bent or trapped, - so this needs to be done slowly, and with care.

Reassembly - reassemble the handle, making sure that the two blade wires are fully sleeved, and sit in the notch in the handle. Obviously this is easier with a transparent pad, and if wished, it may be worth fitting one at this stage. It is best not to shorten the blade wires - just tuck the excess under the pad.

Sleeving - ideally about 1 mm (no more !) of the sleeving should protrude through the coquille onto the blade.

Note – protecting the blade wires through the coquille – as already mentioned, at this point, where the blade wire(s) enter the handle area, the blade wire is very vulnerable. If the sleeving won’t go all the way down (eg if the blade wires have been glued too far along the `tang` during manufacture...), don’t force it, and instead to secure the sleeved wire to the tang with a single turn of electrical adhesive tape trimmed to about 1/8" (3mm) wide.

FIE-style in-guard sockets – These are a requirement for FIE (ie international) events, and certain domestic events, and have two small holes pre-drilled in the plastic block. Ideally the insulated blade wires should be fed through these, though this is not essential for Club use.

Retest the weapon at this stage eg when next at Fencing, or with a Test Box, if you have one. If your epee is still faulty, the next step is to examine the tip,

Examining the tip
Lay the weapon horizontally on a flat surface, and place a wide roll of tape under the coquille. Note : dining room table - if using the ‘dining room table’, lay newspaper, and place a small piece of wood under the point to protect the table. Have an old aerosol lid, or saucer, or similar, ready to store any springs and screws. Examining the Tip

The tip is under tension by a spring - so it may “pop out” suddenly. Remove the two grub screws with a Point Screwdriver; put them somewhere safe, such as an aerosol used plastic lid, etc, and then remove the tip. Inspect the tip for any damage - if it appears deformed, it can probably be straightened with your fingers - be careful not to stretch it.

If it has failed the `feeler gauge` test - it can be probably be adjusted by screwing in the Tip Spring a quarter-turn at a time, and re-testing. This is very fiddly, and you may prefer to ask an armourer to do this.

If it has failed the `750 grams weight` test - it is probably best to fit a new Pressure Spring (although you can try stretching the spring, in an emergency ...)

Lastly, visually inspect the inside of the point (the barrel), preferably with a torch, and clean gently with a cotton bud, if required. (To test the contacts, if required - insert a good tip, or a thin bolt or a screwdriver blade, to bridge the contacts. )

When re-testing, insert the tip loosely, without the grub screws in the first instance. If the weapon tests ok at this stage, refit the tip and re-test. It should now be ok ....

Preventative First Aid ...
- check the point screws are present, and tight - check the in-guard socket screws are tight - and, don’t let your sword get wet, eg bringing in from the car ! If necessary, dry gently with a soft cloth, before putting away. Be careful not to rub the blade with your fingers, in case any sharp edges have developed.

Tools required :
- Domestic-style screwdriver (for the in-guard socket)
- Point screwdriver, eg Leon Paul ref.  TS2, or equivalent
- Allen key (Leon Paul ref.  TK2, or equivalent)
       and/or Hex Nut Spanner (Leon Paul ref.  TS17, or equivalent)
- Test Box, eg Leon Paul ref.  TT26, or equivalent (Optional – see text)
- Aerosol plastic lid, or small saucer, to take any grub screws or washers removed

Useful spare parts :
- Small pack of grub screws
- A couple of tip pressure springs
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